I.
Our Man in Hanoi
wishes
you a very happy New Year and hopes that if any leaves need
turning they have been turned. Here in Vietnam the western
New Year is celebrated, but barely, and Christmas passed
with nary a whimper. Although we usually try to make Christmas
a special time wherever we are its especially difficult
for an Englishman to get into the yuletide spirit when its
25 degrees Centigrade outside and in. (my fault I suppose
for leaving Hanoi to hit a southern island) Sure you see
a few Santas around but they're not the real ones and most
of the locals obviously don't care. And why should they?
What the Vietnamese are really waiting for is the most important
celebration of their year. I speak of course of Tet, the
Vietnamese new year which in importance value is like Christmas,
Thanksgiving, Halloween and Easter all rolled into one…..and
then some. It's also actually your birthday as on Tet everyone
become one year older!
Tet, or to give it it's full name Tet Ngyuen Dan (festival
of the first day) falls on the 23rd day of the 12th month
of the Lunar calendar. This is the end of the Lunar year
and marks the beginning of spring, this is usually around
mid to end January, start to mid February and although officially
lasts less than a week, preparations and celebrations go
on a lot longer. Although the date on which it was first
celebrated is not nailed down precisely, it is believed
by those who know to have begun around the time of Christ
during the time of Han-Chinese domination. Just like in
the West most people spend far too much money during this
festive period; on gifts, food, flowers and fireworks etc.
The fireworks are thought to scare away the evil spirit
Na A by the way, although I've yet to get a definitive answer
on who exactly Na A is. Anyway, again just like the west,
it's a time to forgive your enemies and put the troubles
of the past year behind you in preparation for the hopefully
prosperous and happy New Year to come. Things stretch out
a lot longer than in the west though.
Seven
days before New Year's Day. The Tao Quan, the three spirits
who live in everyone's kitchen, ascend to heaven in order
to give a report on the year's happenings to The Jade Emperor.
It's a weeks journey to Heaven and it's especially important
to keep the kitchen fire at least smoldering during this
time as the warmth of the fire is symbolic for the warmth
that resides in each family. These three spirits get to
heaven by way of, quite bizarrely I think, three carp. Why
not a triumvirate of dragons? or snakes? or something at
least a bit cool? So during the Tet period images of Carp
are omnipresent, particularly popular spots being, unsurprisingly,
family shrines, where they are kept in pots of water. On
the day itself it is traditional to release said fish into
lakes and rivers. Last year it made a beautiful spectacle
as people crowded round Hoan Kiem lake (lake of the sacred
sword and one of the most beautiful sights in Hanoi) to
release their glassy eyed friends. Less beautiful were the
hundreds that were revealed belly up the next day as dawn
broke! That would never happen to a dragon! Other build
ups to the big day involve cleaning the house and more importantly
ancestors' graves, the paying off of old debts and the buying
of what I originally thought were miniature orange trees
to decorate your home. They're actually Kumquat Trees-so
shiny and clean as to look almost plastic, and while not
bonsai size, they're pretty small-a couple of feet. In the
days leading up to Tet it seems that practically every motorbike
in Hanoi has a bright orange tree fastened on the back.
Children are also given little red envelopes of money. The
envelopes are little but judging from the children's anticipation
the amount contained inside may not be. Traditional Tet
food is also served, the most popular being "banh chung"
which is a mixture of pork and bean paste covered in sticky
rice, wrapped up in leaves and tied with bamboo twine to
make a package that looks, at least to my palate, a lot
better than it tastes.
Tet eve (I don't think you can really say that but I've
coined it) is when the three gods return home from Heaven
on what must now be very tired fish. Just like in the west,
as midnight strikes, cue raucous celebrations involving
as much noise as possible. The following day is of course
New Year's Day itself and one where you should tread lightly
as any actions could have repercussions for the entire year.
Among the no no's are swearing, shouting, sad stories, sweeping
- I think this is because you don't want to sweep out "Than
Tai" who is the God of wealth, killing animals, breaking
things… you get the idea, basically anything that could
attract bad spirits. Of particular importance is the first
visitor to your house in the new year. This isn't left to
chance and is carefully orchestrated, ideally you want a
happy, virtuous man who also happens to have the correct
birth year. If there is any chance of someone else turning
up (and there are some people you definitely don't want
as your first visitor!-these are basically those construed
as unlucky in some way) you just leave your house and return
a few minutes later. Tet Day itself is primarily a family
one, spent eating the great feast prepared in the morning,
worshiping your ancestors and attempting to start the year
as you intend to go on. (If this were true for Englishmen,
it would be my longest hangover ever!)
In the evening young men and women go out to enjoy the Tet
atmosphere with friends and to gather "loc", a
branch of young trees that symbolize hope and fortune. (If
your garden's trees happen to overhang onto the street you
may find them stripped bare the following morning) During
what is really a promenade it is also hoped that they may
meet the person of their dreams.
And that dear readers is essentially New Year in Vietnam,
the concise version. One seeped in tradition and with a
great emphasis on the family. If you happen to be in the
country during this period you may find yourself searching
for something to do as most shops, restaurants, bars etc
close to let everyone get home to enjoy the New Year and
its important celebrations with their nearest and dearest.
II. This Month in Review
Beach
Vacations : Sea
- Sun - Sand - the perfect combination for your beach holidays!
We have a range of beach holidays for you, from private bungalows
in Samui to gorgeous Vietnam beaches. We can also arrange
all your hotel reservations in advance so you have nothing
to worry about except working on your tan!
Don't
Worry Love, I'll Make Us A Nice Cup Of Tea.
Amazingly after being trapped for 8 nights under the rubble
caused by the recent earthquake in Iran, Shahr-Banou Mazandarani's
first request upon being rescued (this despite numerous
fractured limbs) was for ….yes a nice cup of tea. Forget
modern medicine, maybe some warm clothing or a trip to the
nearest hospital. This old dear had her priorities right.
Good on her.
Chinese
Target Cats In Anti-SARS Sweep
Reuters reports that China has plans to kill around 10,000
civet cats (Whatever they are) in a bid to eliminate a possible
source of the SARS virus. The diseases control center in
Guangdong has reported a possible link in virus gene samples
between a suspected SARS victim and these Civit cat things.
Apparently they are a local delicacy.
A
Dogs Life
More bad news for animals as authorities in Kashmir announce
a war against the estimated 25,000 to 30,000 stray dogs
that roam the streets of Srinigar in the Kashmir valley.
This has been prompted by a number of reported attacks on
people by the strays and the dog feces that litters the
streets. Muslims generally regard dogs as unclean and this
too may have something to do with it.
Troubled
Thailand
Unrest has long simmered in the southern states of Thailand
and recent arms- heists and arson attacks by Muslim separatists
have led the interior minister to enforce martial law in
the area. 100 weapons have been stolen, 12 schools torched
and 4 soldiers killed. Not good.
More
Trouble In Thailand
The New year holidays have had their usual death tolls on
the roads of Thailand. Between Dec 27 of last year and Jan
3 of this, 857 were killed in road accidents and 42, 179
injured. This despite a recent campaign to curb traffic
accidents. Every year….
Non-Muslim
Women In Kuala Tereengganu To Dress More Conservatively
The Islamic government of the above city have laid down
what some see as strict new laws. Muslim women have long
been subject to severe controls on dress but now the city
council has decreed that even those of other faiths must
rigorously moderate their dress. Basically, no short-sleeved
blouses, tight jeans, skirts with slits, or skirts cut above
the knee. When in Rome? The state government has also decided
to close down all karaoke lounges and snooker halls and
to bar Muslims from premises where liquor is sold.
III.
Feature Destination : Phu Quoc Island: Vietnam's Premier
Travel Destination For Beach Lovers
Recommended
Hotel in Phu Quoc :
 Saigon
Phu Quoc resort is the first Vietnam's
three-star island resort with 90 well-equipped bungalows
and apartments of international standard. The Phu Quoc
Island and resort offers pristine beaches and forests
to all nature lovers and travellers, making the your
stay there a memorable time. For
More Hotels in Vietnam, Click
Here. |
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My
guide book claimed that Phu Quoc island, right down south
off the west coast, had some of the best beaches in Vietnam.
Sounded pretty damn good to me and being something of a
tropical beach connoisseur I wanted the chance to see how
"some of the best beaches in Vietnam" measured
up when compared to those I've seen in Thailand and The
Philippines. I think I've seen some of the best and if Vietnam's
going to stay in my good books it's got to deliver where
it counts. I'm talking white sand, calm blue seas, coconut
tree fringed bays etc. In short, I wanted paradise, the
works, especially when it cost as much to fly there from
Hanoi as it would have to Bangkok.
The
first thing I noticed as we flew in (Its about $50 dollars
from HCM and takes about 50 minutes. Hey, that's a dollar
a minute!...didn't notice that till I saw it on screen)
was how densely forested the island was and how apparently
sparsely populated. Only around 53, 000 people in 1320 sq
km of land (albeit mainly mountainous)- I didn't notice
the figures flying in, I looked them up and everything.
Anyway
as I think I touched on previously it was beaches I was
interested in, preferably with the warm waters as shallow
as my interests. We'd booked ahead and were soon strolling
the sands of Long Beach, the most visitor orientated beach
on the island. It's a pretty impressive stretch of sand,
the real deal, matching all my criteria for a tropical retreat.
Dominated by the Lavish (well it's 3 star) Phu Quoc Resort
at one end it's about 3 k long and gets progressively less
developed the further away from the Phu Quoc Resort and
the island's main town you walk. When I say developed you
have to take it relatively. I mean developed in contrast
to the rest of the island where dirt tracks and bamboo huts
are the norm, I think the entire beach had three or maybe
four resorts on it and nowhere near enough to make even
this- the most popular beach- crowded. Give it time and
I suppose it'll become another Samui or Bali but for the
time being it's very laid back. Walking away from town with
your flip-flops spraying sand everywhere, you eventually
come to a small rocky out post and behind that…..another
gorgeous beach and so it continues pretty much round the
whole island.
A
motorbike trip round the island really confirmed more of
the same only less developed. Mile upon mile of gorgeous
unspoilt coast line. Paradoxically some of those beautiful
stretches of golden sand may be too unspoilt as unless one
is willing to pitch a tent and make like a bear (there's
plenty of forest) there aren't a lot of places to stay.
Unfortunately (?) this must surely change. It'll surely
bring some wealth onto the island and increase some people's
standards of living and then as I've seen in so many places,
I won't want to go there any longer because it's too crowded.
Suppose you've just got to catch these places at the right
time, enjoy them while they stay nice and be happy for the
people who make a bit of money out of it. Hopefully this
will be the local Phu Quocians and not some evil blood sucking
corporation! The nicest beach we saw on the island was Bai
Sao which is in a lovely little cove. No hotels or guesthouses
as yet but a couple of restaurants. It had a healthy splattering
of couples and families enjoying the calm waters and cool
breeze and makes for a nice day trip. Recommended.
Other
than the beaches there's plenty of other things to do and
see on the island. You can go scuba diving or snorkeling,
which involves a boat trip out to the nearest spot of decent
coral; play with the dogs (Phu Quoc's dogs are famed hunting
beasts and, I believe, a unique breed); visit the pearl
factory (not so impressive but has one of those battery
operated fish that sing a song!), visit the factory where
they make fish sauce (I didn't go but a colleague tells
me "it's quite interesting actually") or take
a trip to the natural springs in the middle of the island
(again didn't go but I guess a spring's a spring, right?)
Ok I'm reaching….there really isn't a whole lot to do on
the island unless like me you like lazing around doing nothing
in beautiful surroundings…..and to return to my premise
of how good the beaches are. They're good, really good,
maybe not the best I've ever seen in all my travels but
in my 5 days I didn't see all the beaches Phu Quoc had to
offer and those that I did, I challenge anyone to denigrate.
They're just like the postcards.
IV: Your Question Answered:
Question:
I have less than a week in Thailand and would like to get
in as much beach time as possible. I've heard that both
Koh Chang and Koh Samet are nice. Which would you recommend
and how do I get there?
Answer:
For
my money Koh Chang is the better option although Samet is
also very beautiful and I’ve spent some wonderful holidays
there. To see either island at its best you probably want
to head out around Christmas time when the skies are clear
and the waters calm. Although Koh Chang is slightly further
away than Samet the extra travel time is definitely worth
it. And actually it doesn't take you too much longer if
you go overnight. Just get the 11:00pm or 12:00 am bus from
The Ekamai Bus terminal (accessible by sky train) and try
and sleep for the 5 hours or so it takes to get to Trat.
When you arrive in Trat there's time for a quick coffee
and a bite to eat before you jump on a songthaew to the
port (about a 25 min journey) then you have a bit of a wait
for the boat (about an hour) before the trip from the mainland
to Koh Chang. It really is quite simple and you can be on
the beach by about 9 or 10 in the morning. As to accommodation
it's horses for courses really. If you like things lively
then stay on White Sands (Had sai cow), but if you prefer
something quieter I'd recommend booking one night on White
Sands, there are plenty of places to stay, and then getting
a moped to tour the coast and check out the other beaches.
There are lots of those picture-perfect beaches with the
overhanging palm tees etc that have just one bungalow operation
and give you a chance to really get away from it all. In
contrast to this Koh Samet is generally a lot busier (although
you can find some quiet peaceful places to stay if you try).
And beautiful as it is, it doesn't quite come up to Chang's
VERY high standards. Two small pieces of advice though,
watch out for jelly fish, if you plan to stay over New Year
or indeed any Thai holiday, you'll need to book ahead if
you stay on any of the more popular beaches. (same DEFINITELY
applies to Samet)
VII.
Important Information
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