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Our Man in Hanoi : A letter from the editor
The Month in Review
Feature Destination: Bangkok
Asia Trivia
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Our Man in Ha Noi has had an interesting 4 weeks, much of it traveling, yes by bus, boat, train, plane, motor bike, bicycle and coach, I pretty much did it all. A day trip to Ba Vi National park in the north of Vietnam was first on the agenda and a welcome respite from the six continuous months or so I’d spent in Hanoi. Nice as the city is its always nice to get away, but I must admit to being a bit of a wuss. Driving along empty dirt tracks on my (trusty?) Belarusian Minsk (pre-world-war design and used till very recently by the Russian army) I always seemed to have that nagging thought of, “If we break down now, we are really $@@@@” although I’m sure some kindly native would have wandered along eventually and shown me (with exaggerated nonchalance) which screw the stupid white guy should turn to make it start again. (It’s happened before.) The mountains, jungle and rural setting really made an impression on my perhaps naive and western influenced  idea of romantic tropical countryside-oh those cute little huts- although less so my wife, who comes from the island of Mindanao in the Philippines. Her completely  underwhelmed attitude took me back to a bus trip from Bangkok to Sangklaburi on the Thai-Burmese border. Every guide book I read impressed on me the beauty of this road-the best trip in Thailand no less and with an expensive new camera bought, I’d been looking forwards to it for weeks. To our right, towering jungle clad mountains and to the left a sparkling man-made lake the surface broken periodically by the tips of trees, the top floors of houses and one spiraling temple, all flooded when the lake was made. Ahead a windy road led into mist covered hills and it was a pretty impressive sight. Prodding my wife awake,

     “Look, look at that!”   
     “What? Look at what? Where?”
     “Right there? The scenery isn’t it beautiful”

I told her, happily snapping away, and waiting for the gasps and sighs of awe that would surely come and that only nature at its very best could inspire.

     “Oh I see.. right. Yes it is nice Joel.. um... but um to tell you the truth this looks exactly like the
     place I grew up in” and, noticing my saddened face “but it is very nice dear.”

And then she went back to sleep. Deflated described my feelings at that moment and although I was prepared, so it was in Ba Vi. I do think she enjoyed telling me where to go on the map though and if you didn’t grow up in a tropical mountain paradise then I can recommend it.

We also did a lot of plane travel (you just can not beat London in the summer) and if you haven’t traveled recently, be aware that security is even stricter than you might imagine (at least for adults that is). At Bangkok International Airport on transit to Hanoi, my wife and I were subjected to the most rigorous of checks- bags searched, passports scrutinized with elaborate care, patted down, scanned with the metal detector thing that looks like a cattle prod and eventually, begrudgingly almost, permitted to board the plane. For little kids in Thailand however it seems to be different. I witnessed several five or six year olds being waved through at the checks and although I know Thais (and Asians in general?) love kids but come on. One of them had a really shifty gaze and you could pack a lot of semtex down a pair of those cute dungarees.

Anyway, even without the 6 year old terrorists I,  like most,  abhor those long- haul flights. There is nothing worse in my mind: the horrible cold reconditioned air that you share with hundreds of others-and who knows what coughs, colds and flus they have, the seats that fold back but not enough to get really comfortable (especially if the inconsiderate @@$$$$ in front of you has folded his back as well, the noise, the way you’re treated like so many cattle with feeding time, sleeping time etc. (I almost always drift off just before the airline deems its time to wake up and switches on the lights). Give me a train anytime!... ahh the chug chug chug as you drift off to sleep, the cigarette breaks taken between carriages that sway from side to side, the every changing scenery, the walk to the dining car for coffee and snacks... But you can do a lot to lessen the pain of what was once THE glamorous way to travel. Firstly, don’t fly Thai if you can avoid it. Not that it’s the worst in the world by any means, but Cathay in my experience offer much better service. Snacks and drinks served when you want them, and not as if you’ve asked for the moon on a stick either, more leg room, your own little TV, altogether a more pleasant experience. And you can go further, get ear plugs, the kind you can buy from motorbike or travel shops which are made off some kind of foam. You compress the little givers of peace, stick them in you ears and as they expand!....ahhhh the crying child, the noise from the turbines, the rush of the air conditioning, they all disappear as you enter your own private cocoon. To complete the isolation like experience, be sure to ask the stewards to bring you eye blinds pronto! kick of your shoes (the swelling you know) and do your best to forget you are 20000 feet in the air hurtling along in a tube of metal which has probably undergone less than stringent quality control tests. Funny, for a traveler I don’t really like the traveling part so much....     

II. This Month in Review

Best of British
Ananova.com bring us the news via a survey conducted by Explore Worldwide that the thing that Britons miss most when abroad is…..wait for it…..the traditional English Breakfast. We Brits really are a sorry lot and readers from other nations please feel free to sneer and scoff at leisure. Not only is our food internationally renowned for being truly disgusting but it seems we are also too dumb to realize it and are happy to let the world know how much we miss our blood puddings, fried bread and weak tea……mind you I could murder a chip butty right now.  

Kashmir Abuzz with Tourists (a headline I’m sure you didn’t expect to see)
Etravel.org is the bearer of happy news about northern India, namely Kashmir. Rated as one of the most beautiful parts of India, if not the world, and famed for its opulent house boats afloat Lake Dal- a remnant of the Raj era, Kashmir is receiving over ten times as many visitors as it was this time last year- about 100,000 and counting. Both Foreigners and Indians are flocking once again to the province of lakes, orchards and mountains, hopefully signaling an end to the violence that has so marred this area in recent years.   

Beautiful  Chinese Figures
The Associated Press tells us that Sichuan Airlines (a Southern Chinese Airline company) has paid the equivalent of US$282,000 for the phone number 88888888. In China 8 is an auspicious, lucky number, mainly because it rhymes with the Chinese word for rich and Xing Bing of the airlines culture department believes it would have been cheap at half the price as it, “will make customers happy when they call.''

Orangutans Killed and Injured in Senseless Attack
Some very sad news for animal lovers and indeed any one with a heart. Several adult Orangutans were attacked near Koto Kinabalu in Malaysia. Sadly two of the apes died while several more are being treated at the moment for serious stab wounds and obvious trauma. Why someone would want to do this I just cannot fathom and the distress caused to everyone, including my cousin who is working at a rehabilitation center there, must be incredible. The adult apes were being prepared to be re-released into the jungle, but if the survivors ever recover sufficiently for this to happen remains to be seen. The Malaysian authorities have issued a reward for any information regarding the attacks.

Hydropolis Planned
Dubai seems to be the major driving force behind a plan to build the worlds first luxury underwater hotel. The US$500,000,000 project is due to be completed in 2006, will cover 10,8 hectares and has been designed as a way to encourage foreign tourism at a time when Dubai must face up to its dwindling oil supply. Or so says msnbc.com.

III. Feature destination: Bangkok, Thailand

            Royal Orchid Sheraton: from USD 485  : 5-star hotel
            Amari Watergate Hotel: from USD 361 : 4-star hotel
            Shangri-la Hotel Bangkok: from USD 557 :5-star hotel
            Peninsula Bangkok: from USD 752 : 5-star hotel
            Siam City Hotel : from USD 350 : 4-star hotel

Bangkok really is a sprawling monster of a city ( official population 6 million, in reality closer to 9) and at first glance many people’s first reaction is to get the hell out of it . But although its treasures are a little more hidden than say Florence or Madrid, they do exist and in abundance, take it from someone who lived there for nigh on 8 years. Temples, canals, markets, those never to be forgotten restaurants, and if you take just a little time to step of the main roads, you’ll find yourself in winding lanes and allays you never imagined existed and are a million miles (years) from the sky scrapers, Irish theme bars, and 7 elevens which seem to characterize every major city these days.

It’s a great city, of that here is no doubt, but it at times it can seem a little daunting for new arrivals. Your first obstacle will no doubt come as you step outside the airport into the hot humid air looking for a taxi (This is the moment I truly savor and when I really feel I’ve come “home”.) The taxi drivers can very reluctant to turn on their meters, but fret not, just go to the next one, and the next one. Repeat until you find the guy who will turn on his meter. Usually after they’ve seen you turn down a couple they’ll realize its meter or nothing. Or (an old travelers trip which I’m sure many of you already know and if do not, should) just nip down (or is it up, slips my mind) to departures where you’ll quickly find a taxi driver so happy to get a return trip that there’ll be no quibbling about the fare.

Getting around the city is pretty simple, the sky train being the easiest and most comfortable way to travel and although it doesn’t cover the entire city it’ll more than likely stop at most of the places you’re likely to want to visit. If your destination is off the sky train route then it’s no big problem with meter taxis everywhere- all you really need to do is stick out a hand and watch one screech to a halt. By and large taxi drivers in Bangkok aren’t a bad lot and as long as you make sure they switch on their meter you should have no problems. If they won’t switch on the meter, don’t waste any time arguing, just get out and flag down another, it’ll honestly appear in seconds.(ok a minute at the outside)

In my mind the one spot you should not miss when in what the Thais call Krung Thep, The City of Angels is Chatuchak, The weekend market. This is THE place to buy something or anything. Whatever you want, you’re pretty much guaranteed to find it here. Great if Christmas is coming up. Even if you don’t want to buy anything, then go anyway just to experience what is, I believe, the largest outdoor market in Asia. To get there get off at the last stop on the sky train- Mor Chit, you really can’t miss it. As soon as you step out of the station just follow the crowd and pretty soon you’ll find yourself in amongst the thousands of stalls. Although some attempt has been made to bring order to the market with areas divided according to goods; antiques over here, plants there, wooden carvings yonder, and spices to your right etc...there really isn’t much chance of following a designated route. Just plunge in and you’ll find yourself part of the colors, smells and unique atmosphere that makes up Chatuchak. It’s also a pleasant place to wander due to the lack of hassle you get in say the souks of North Africa or the Pat Pong Street Market off Silom. Although the sheer volume of people means that you should keep a close eye on your wallet, purse, handbag, I’ve never once had anything stolen in the hundreds of trips I’ve taken down the winding streets of this mini city. If, like me, you don’t really like places too crowded then go on a Friday. This is the day when many of the stalls are just preparing for the onslaught of Saturday and Sunday and are setting up their wares. There are a lot less people there and though many of the stalls are shut there’s  still plenty to satisfy the curiosity.

After a hard days browsing or buying then you’re going to have worked up a bit of an appetite, and there is no better place to be when you’re hungry than Thailand. The country is known internationally for its food, and rightly so. Due to the number of regional immigrants to the city who just can’t live without their favorite dishes, in  Bangkok you have access to food from all over the Kingdom.

Street stalls line most streets and offer up top notch fare to be eaten on rickety tables on the sidewalk. Most of the time you can just point at what takes your fancy take a pew and await your meal but because it can sometimes be confusing as to who is selling what here’s a quick guide to some of the more common dishes in Thailand with the Thai name written as phonetically as is possible using the Roman Alphabet

Most street food is sold from silver colored metal carts on wheels with glass display windows. A vat of  boiling something set inside the cart generally means they’re selling noodles. Chances are if you see grey balls in the display windows they are selling Koi Tio, rice noodles with fish balls. If you see red pork hanging from hooks, its Bar Mee Moo Dang, egg noodles with red pork and to my palate the far tastier of the Two noodle dishes. You’ll pay around 60 cents for a steaming aromatic bowl.

If in the display windows you see boiled chicken or crispy chicken (a bit like KFC chicken) the odds are it’s Cow Man Gai, flavored rice served with the sliced chicken on top and a chicken broth on the side. A simple but magnificent meal.

By far the most common food served is Cow pat Gai. Chicken fried rice and if the metal stall doesn’t have a boiling vat set in the middle of it then this is what you’ll be getting. 

The variety of food available in Bangkok is vast and I really could go on forever but there’s no need as whatever you end up with its invariably good. Just remember that the Thai for not too hot please is “My Pet.” The following is a short list of some of the better Bangkok restaurants which have English menus.

Ban Chiang, 14 Soi Si Wiang
Ban Paw (Father’s House), Siam Square near the Novotel
Chaii Karr, Thanon Silom opposite the Holiday Inn
Supatra River House, 266 Soi Wat Rakhang

If you find the time, look at your map and head to the Baiyoke Tower 2 in central Pratunam. This is the tallest Building in the city, the second tallest hotel in the world and the top floor, on a clear day, offers a birds eye view of the city. What will strike you is a) the lack of greenery and b) the many sparkling gold  buildings dotting the city. These are the famous temples of Bangkok, once the center of social life but now used pretty exclusively for religious purposes. You are allowed to enter any temple, any time as long as you are properly attired which means no shorts, no shoes and no short-sleeved shirts. As you wander the city don’t be afraid to stroll into one or two temples not mentioned in all the literature about the city, you won’t be disappointed and at the very least they’ll  offer some peace, quiet and shade.

Some of the most beautiful and popular are Wat Pho near the Tha Tien river stop, Wat Arun again near Tha Tien river stop-just take a quick cross-river ferry, Wat Phra Kaew in the Grand Palace and easily found on any map and Wat Benchamabophit on Thanon (road) Sri Ayutahya . (Wat means Temple in Thai)

No trip To Bangkok is complete without a trip on either the river or the canals. An interesting canal trip to take is to jump on (quickly! the longboat drivers don’t hang around) on a boat at the boat stop near the world trade center (you’ll find it on any map) and ride down to Banglamphoo, the Backpackers Ghetto and also where you’ll find the grand palace and Sanam Luang (one of Bangkok’s few parks). There are few sights as beautiful as seeing the golden spires of the Grand Palace peeking though the many colorful kites that Bangkokers like to fly in the park on the weekend.

Another option for boat travel is to ride the express boat (just get on the biggest boat you see at the port) up to Nothaburi (the end of the line). There’s nothing much to see in Nontaburi but as with the ride from the world trade center to Banglampoo you get a good look at the houses that sit right by the water and a way of life that’s changed little over the past hundred years or so. People swimming, washing clothes, buying noodles from passing boats, it’s all very different from the Bangkok you see as a land-lubber!   

Bangkok’s also got a big reputation for its night life and some of its night clubs are as good as their counterparts in New York or London. For great music and good beer head to Saxophone in Victory monument- three stories with loud jazz and blues. Or you could try any of the Bars on Soi Sarason near Lumpini Park. For night life of the more sleazy variety check out Nana on Sukumvit Soi 4, or Soi Cowboy off Asoke.

III. Asia Trivia

This week I thought  I’d stick with the Bangkok theme set in our Featured destination section and give you Ten Fascinating facts about Bangkok.

1. Bangkok became Thailand's capital in 1782 when King Rama 1, fearing attack from the Burmese, moved the capital from the eastern banks of the Chao Praya River to the more easily defendable western side. Bangkok now spans both sides of this river over an area of 1500 square kilometers.

2. Thai's universally refer to their city as Krung Thep, which roughly translates as City of Angels. These are just the first two words of what the Guinness book of records acknowledges to be the longest place name in the world. The name Bangkok means village of wild plums and refers to the city's old site, now the suburb of Thonburi.

3. Bangkok with a population of around 6,000,000 is Thailand’s most populated city by a long way. The next biggest city is Chiang Mai in the north with a population of only 170,000, not even a 30th of Bangkok’s

4. Bangkok is built on low-lying swampland. This, heavy seasonal rain and a high use of ground water by a rapidly growing population contributes to the city sinking by up to 5 cm a year. 

5.Traimit Temple, near Hualomphong railway station, houses a 3 meter tall, solid gold Buddha image. This five and a half ton statue was rediscovered in 1955 when, while being moved, a piece of the plaster that encased it cracked and fell off revealing its hidden value.

6. From steel cooking utensils to intricate wooden carvings to jeans, you'll find them all and more in Chatuchak, a sprawling outdoor market in North Bangkok. Spread over several square kilometers it is also known as the Weekend Market, and is, as the name suggests, only open on Saturday and Sunday.

7. In July of every year the streets of Bangkok are the setting for a huge water fight as revelers head outside to celebrate the Thai New Year, Songkhran. Traditionally celebrated by pouring scented water on the hands of elders in a show of respect, the modern version sees combatants do battle with buckets of water and high-powered water pistols.

8. The huge influx of regional workers to Bangkok means that the streets are packed with stalls and restaurants selling dishes from around the country. A good example of this is Soi Rang Nam near Victory Monument where eateries serve almost exclusively North Eastern food including the very popular Som Tam; a hot salad made from unripe papaya.

9. Jim Thompson's house, just off Rama I Road and next to Saen Saeb canal represents one of best of examples of traditional Thai architecture in the city. Built by the renowned entrepreneur, it consists of six solid teak buildings, most at least 200 years old, which were transported to their present sight in the 1950's.

10.The Emerald Buddha, reputably over a 1000 years old is regarded by the Thai people as the most sacred object in the country and a potent symbol of national independence. Actually made of jade, this 30-inch high statue can be found in the temple of the Emerald Buddha inside the grand palace compound on Rajdamnoen Road.

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